The National Gallery of Scotland: The Highlights.
This week after a tour I ventured down to the free National Gallery to see the newly opened Scottish gallery and wanted to showcase the “must-sees” of this Edinburgh institution!
Situated on the Mound, directly between Edinburgh’s old and new towns the National Gallery is home to a wonderful collection of artwork.
Directly next to the Royal Scottish Academy building, you will spot the stand out neoclassical style building as you approach.
In my opinion, I would allow two hours to explore the galleries.
The History
The gallery was first opened in 1859 and was designed by the famous Scottish architect William Henry Playfair (he helped design Edinburgh’s new town). The facade of the gallery was designed to form an ancient Greek temple. Queen Victoria’s beloved husband, Prince Albert laid the first foundation stone.
The main entrance is adorned with Doric columns and the sandstone building was recently renovated as part of a £38 million project.
Once you are inside the building you will see the collection wraps around the first floor and includes international artists such as Edgar Degas, Rubens and Van Gogh. However, in my opinion the most interesting section for me was the Scottish collection.
The Highlights Inside
“The Skating Minister”
Perhaps one of the most well known paintings is by Sir Henry Raeburn -
“The Skating Minister”. (1795)
Reverend Robert Walker was Presbyterian minister of the Canongate Kirk and was also a member of the prestigious Edinburgh skating society.
Walker grew up in the Netherlands and it has been suggested that this is where he learned the skill of skating on ice. In the painting he is wearing Dutch style skates. Usually over the winter months the society would meet on the frozen loch of Duddingston to ice skate or play curling and Raeburn captured him gliding across the ice so effortlessly.
The painting remained in a private collection (the subject’s family) until it came up for auction in 1949. The National Galleries of Scotland purchased the painting and has been used in their marketing and merchandise to this day. In 2019, Glasgow artist Ross Muir painted his interpretation of Reverend Walker and can be seen skating with Addidas trainers and listening to music through headphones!
“The Monarch of The Glen”
Arguably, this painting is one of the most recognisable from the 19th century.
English artist Sir Edwin Landseer painted the oil painting in 1851 and it has been part of the National Galleries collection since 2017.
I think the reason this painting evokes such attention and emotion is because it provides an almost cliche version of what the Scottish Highlands look like - think Shortbread tin images of rugged Scottish highlands and this painting will come to mind. Throughout the 19th and 20th century it was visits from Queen Victoria and writer Walter Scott that drew attention to the Scottish Highlands and in a way made the region fashionable.
The artist, Landseer was commissioned to paint three subjects connected with the chase, these paintings were to be hung on the walls of the House of Lords in London.
However, once they were completed the House of Commons refused to grant the £150 (£20k in today's money) and as a result the paintings were then sold into the hands of a private collector.
The Monarch of the Glen depicts a strong 12 pointed stag emerging from the misty highland mountains with typical moody and atmospheric Scottish weather. It is said that the area is of Glen Affric, just west of Loch Ness. Landseer suffered from a mental health breakdown and travelled north to Scotland to recover, during his recovery he delved into painting and sketching the roaming stags. The Monarch of the Glen stag is a glorified version of a stag, perhaps a Victorian era filter that made the animal shine in a gloriously perfect light.
The painting now has been widely reproduced and has gained global recognition that links back to the wild highlands of Scotland. Inside the gallery shop they have a collection of merchandise on offer.
“Edinburgh (from Salisbury Crags)”
Inside the gallery there are many different views and interpretations of Edinburgh however, this one was my favourite. Painted by William Crozier, the 1927 work has elements of cubism which can be seen by the shape of the buildings on the skyline. The geometry of the industrial buildings really showcases Edinburgh during this time and I quite like the simplicity of each building.
The Edinburgh born artist studied at the Edinburgh College of Art, he spent some time working and painting in Paris through the 1920’s. Unfortunately he was plagued with ill health throughout his lifetime suffering from haemophilia and died following a fall in his studio at the age of 37.
You can see this painting on the lower level section and I find it fitting that the painting is directly next to a window that looks out over Edinburgh’s skyline.
“Mary, Queen of Scots: The Farewell to France”
The iconic Scottish queen has been captured in this 1867 oil painting by Robert Herdman.
He was commissioned to paint four pictures, illustrating episodes from the turbulent life of Mary. This particular painting depicts a young Mary leaving the shores of France on her ill fated journey back to Scotland in 1561.
Mary was widowed after the tragic death of her first husband Francis. You can see in the painting her emotions and a wonderment of what she is thinking. She famously arrived on the shores of Leith to great excitement from the Scottish people.
Inside the gallery there are a few paintings of Mary, James Drummond’s “Return of Mary, Queen of Scots to Edinburgh” painted in 1870 depicts her arrival back in the capital in 1567. If you are a Mary fan I have created an Edinburgh audio tour you can find here.
“Geisha Girl”
Positioned in the Glasgow Boys section of the gallery is the beautifully elaborate “Geisha” painted in 1894 by Scottish painter, George Henry.
The details and patterns of this work are vivid and the sitter is wearing a traditional embroidered kimono and fan. Behind her right shoulder you can see a small peek of the famous Mount Fuji in the background. The style of Japonism was becoming popular in the 19th century and in Glasgow in 1882 there was an exhibition on oriental art held in the city.
Henry visited Japan in 1895 on an 18 month study tour and thereafter his works did have a strong “oriental” style. However, upon his return from Japan many of his works were ruined on the return voyage, however his travel experiences and inspiration did lead to this Geisha Girl painting being produced.
Additional Information
The National Gallery is open daily from 10-5 and is free of charge to enter. Some temporary exhibitions on show may have charges.
If you are planning on taking your time throughout your visit then I would download the Smartify app. It allows you to scan the art and then learn about the stories behind them.
The gallery does have lockers that you can use and a bike rack if you need it.
On the lower level there is an outstanding restaurant and gallery cafe. There is also a large gift shop area where you can purchase art works, books and art supplies.
Getting there is easy as there is the Edinburgh tram link and city buses outside of the building.
