Inside the excellent and free National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh you can look up close at the Lewis chess pieces in all of their glory.

You can find the set in the Kingdom Of Scots gallery on level one. Inside this section you will also see how Scotland was formed as a nation from 1100 up to 1707.

If you are visiting the city and are interested in Scottish history then I highly recommend you pop in for a look - the museum is extensive so allow a couple of hours at least to explore.

The Chessmen

Displayed behind glass they are lined up in a group of 11 pieces staring back.

Only recently in November 2024, the National Museum of Scotland have re-displayed the set in a special case that means you can also see the back of the chessmen for the first time.

Who and what are they?

The Lewis Chessmen were uncovered as a part of a large Viking era hoard buried on the outer hebridean island of Lewis. The Lewis chess set is of such importance to Scotland, not only are they the best known archaeological find in Scotland, they are said to be one of the earliest examples of a chess set that has Bishops and Queens. They are over 800 years old and in remarkable condition.

During this time period in the 12th century, the island was under Scandinavian rule. It was not until 1266 that the isles became part of Scotland.

Experts believe that they were made in the late 12th century in Norway (Around 1150). There are 93 playing pieces in total, the pieces are carved from walrus ivory and whale bone or whale teeth. Originally some of the pieces were stained vivid red, over time the colour of the pieces has disappeared.

Archaeologists are able to tell the age of these pieces based on the way the Bishop is wearing the hat (Mitre), from 1150 onwards it was standard practice for Bishops to wear their mitre facing forwards at the front of the head. Prior to 1150 Bishops wore their mitres at the side of their heads - all 16 of the Bishops are wearing their hats in this way.

The types of pieces

The Queen pieces are sitting with their head resting on their hands, this is to represent them contemplating on things, much like you would do in a game of chess.

The set also includes four Berserkers, if you look closely at them they are alert and wide eyed and are biting the front of their shields. In Norse mythology the Berserker is to represent the ideal representation of a fierce warrior. The word “berserk” today stems from this, an uncontrollable act of madness. I have included a close up image of the Berserkers and you can see the details so clearly.

In theory the set reflects the feudal viking society: King, Queen, Bishop, Knight and then armed men. All three of the social orders are represented in the set. The pawns could be seen as the “people” and in the scale of things, deemed less important.

Viking Norway

It is said the chessmen were made in the Norwegian town of Trondheim, there is some archaeological evidence in Trondheim of a workshop there to back this up.

This area in Norway was the epicentre of Medieval viking living and commerce, especially for hunting whale and walrus. Walrus ivory at the time was the only type of ivory you could get in northern Europe at that time, therefore it was in great demand and expensive.

In Trondheim there is a similar style of sculpture and carvings in the main church there too. Crafting walrus ivory was difficult and the material was very expensive so highly qualified craftsmen must have made the different pieces.

It is believed that the chess pieces would have been a highly treasured item, most like the possession of a local leader or Bishop or leader.

The game of chess was popular amongst Vikings and the idea of strategy and logic was deemed an admirable asset, playing the game could focus their minds and distract them from the cold winter nights. Considering the amount of Kings, Bishops and Queens found there seems to be enough pieces to have created four sets of chess.

Why were they buried?

Obviously there is no definite answer to why these pieces were buried in the sands, however one theory is that they were buried very soon after they were made by a merchant to avoid paying taxes after becoming shipwrecked nearby.

Some historians believe that there were additional sets taken over by merchants to sell. To date, no one really knows why the chess set was made and where they were intended to end up.

The hoard was found near Uig Bay on the western side of the island. On this side of the island, locally the chess pieces are called the “Uig chessmen”.

There are six pieces in the Museum nan Eilean on the Isle of Lewis. If you do visit this region, be sure to keep yours open on the sand… you might discover another piece.

Video property of Travel Kat Tours 2024

Uncovering the hoard

There seems to be some varying accounts of when and who uncovered the hoard… in the 19th century, archaeological practices were in their infancy and record keeping seems a bit conflicted.

One account is that in 1831 farmer Malcom Macleod was tending to his cattle when one of his animals ventured out onto the sands of Uig Bay. Malcolm followed his cow onto the beach, as he was getting closer he noticed a small mount. Upon closer inspection, a stone chamber uncovered by the animal.

As he investigated the chamber he came across a wooden box… inside, there were 78 beautifully carved chess pieces, alongside other gaming pieces. The pieces were in immaculate condition and each piece is unique. In the hoard there are 8 Kings, 8 Queens, 15 Knights, 16 Bishops, 4 Berserkers, 12 Warders and 19 Pawns. Since the hoard was uncovered there is one knight and four warders missing from the set, no board has ever been discovered.

Where to see the Lewis Chessmen

After Malcolm’s discovery, they were first exhibited inside his farm byre on the island and he went on to sell them for £30.

The majority of the pieces were then bought at another auction for £84 by the British Museum in London - It seems unbelievable the price paid for such pieces.

Even today, the British museum has “loaned”the pieces to the museum on Lewis, I’m not sure how I feel about that..

There is also collection in the British Museum in London in the Medieval Europe 1050-1500 gallery. I have linked their google arts link where you can see them via google street view.

Years later in 2019 a rook piece was found in a random drawer in an Edinburgh flat and later sold at a Sotheby’s auction for…£735,000.

The owner initially had no idea it was one of chess pieces and it was then discovered that their grandfather, an antiques dealer in Edinburgh had bought the chess piece for £5 in 1964.

Replica piece from the National Museum shop

Harry Potter Connection

During the filming of the first Harry Potter film in 2001 (Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone) wizard characters Ron and Harry play a game of “wizard’s chess”, the game is brutal and the pieces become enchanted and begin to move by themselves.

Since the movie's release, the Lewis Chess men have gained a new following. You can purhcase your own set of wizard chess here from The Noble Collection.

Throughout the world there are copies made of the chess players and throughout the island of Lewis there are carvings found across the landscape.

Purchasing replicas

If you wish to purchase a replica chess set you can do so from the National Museum of Scotland. The museum shop also have different pieces of merchandise including books, tea towels, Christmas decorations and whisky glasses.

The Lewis Chessmen History & where to see them.

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