Robert Burns Edinburgh
All over the world Burns Suppers will take place in his honour tonight and I wanted to share some locations in Edinburgh that link back to the creator of the world famous “Auld Lang Syne” song.
Although Robert Burns may have been in Alloway, Ayrshire in 1759, the famous Scots poet did have links to the capital, Edinburgh.
As his career progressed onwards he ventured to Edinburgh in 1786. At the time his work recent works, The Kilmarnock Volume which included well known works such as “To a Mouse,” “To a Louse,” and the “Twa Dogs” were increasingly popular.
Burns was anxious to impress a genteel Edinburgh audience but soon began to strike up relationships with the wealthy and prominent merchants in the city.
On his arrival into Edinburgh, Burns lived in what was called Baxter’s Close, although that exact close does not exist now it would have been on the Lawnmarket region of the Royal Mile. I took this picture of the sign at the entrance to Lady Stairs Close, look above to see the gold lettering above.
He was a frequent visitor to a tavern down Anchor's Close so much so he joined an Edinburgh drinking club - the Crochallan Fencibles.
Also on Anchor's Close was a printing works and it was there The Edinburgh Edition of Robert Burns’ poems was published by William Creech and printed by William Smellie.
During his time in Edinburgh he only wrote two of his poems there. Perhaps however, one of the most well known - ‘Address to a Haggis’ was one of them and this poem is traditionally recited at every Burns Supper. If you are to witness this in-person you're in for a treat! Great care and theatrics are par for the course.
Below I have a few locations in Edinburgh you can see for yourself with links to our Rabbie Burns.
The White Hart Inn, Grassmarket
The White Hart Inn is one of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs and remarkably is still in business today. Burns spent one week in this Inn during a visit in 1791. It is known that he visited his supposed long term lover Agnes (nicknamed Clarinda) there for the final time. He had attempted to “woo” her but she insisted while there, he penned one of his most renowned love songs; Ae Fond Kiss".
Ae fond kiss, and then we sever;
Ae fareweel, alas, forever!
If you do visit this pub for a wee dram, be sure to look at the wooden beams above they are inscribed with quotes of Robert Burn's work.
Canongate Kirkyard, Royal Mile
Another location that is worthy of a visit is to the Canongate Kirkyard situated at the bottom of the Royal Mile.
As aforementioned, Burn’s female companion “Clarinda” is buried inside this graveyard. Her real name, Agnes Craig was born in Glasgow in 1759 and came across the charming Bard in Edinburgh at a tea party. At the time Agnes was living away from her husband who had moved to Jamaica.
Despite both of them being married, they would develop a tender relationship through letter writing to each other written under pen names. The pseudonyms of her "Clarinda" to his "Sylvander" were adopted by the pair to keep their relationship secret.
Agnes's husband had emigrated to Jamaica (he was a brutal slave owner) and in 1791 she decided to attempt a reconciliation with him by sailing to join him in the West Indies. Their reunion did not go well but that's a story for another time.
Before she left for Jamaica, their final meeting inside the White Heart Inn was said to be emotional.
Burns enclosed the poem (Ae Fond Kiss) — which would become one of his best-known, in a letter that Agnes carried with her to Jamaica. Unfortunately they would never see each other again and Agnes lived to the ripe old age of 82 in 1841, outliving Burns by many decades.
Agnes later described this final meeting in her diary.
Under the date, 6 December 1831, Nancy wrote in her journal:
"This day I can never forget. Parted with Burns, in the year 1791, never more to meet in this world. Oh, may we meet in Heaven!"
It was Agnes' grandson who later published their letters in 1843 for the world to see.
Clarinda’s Tea Room, Royal Mile
As you walk around the Canongate Kirkyard I would recommend a visit to the nearby tea room aptly named “Clarinda's”. Although historically it has nothing to do with Robert Burns, the cute cottage core tea- room does offer one homemade cake, scones and tea.
Burn's Monument, Regent Road.
Situated on regent road overlooking Edinburgh’s old town and Salisbury Crags is the large neo-classical monument to the poet.
The Burns Monument built in 1831-39 commemorates Scotland's national poet. The idea of the monument stemmed from the Robert Burn's Society to celebrate his creative genius and for his promotion of the Scots language.
Designed by Thomas Hamilton, the country’s leading Greek Revivalist architect of the time. He also helped design the nearby Royal High School building.
The monument is thoughtfully surrounded by plants mentioned in the bard’s poetry, including hollies, laurels and beautiful Ayrshire roses.
Initially the monument did have a white marble statue of Robert Burns inside, however that has been relocated to the Scottish Portrait gallery on Queen Street.
Although you can't visit inside the Doors Open day (September every year) offer visitors the chance to have a look inside, I will link their website here.
The Writer’s Museum, Makars Court
Situated right in the heart of the old town is the highly recommended Writer's Museum. The free museum is home to a collection of artifacts and works of three famous Scottish writers - Robert Louis Stevenson, Walter Scott and of course Robert Burns!
Each floor is dedicated to one of these outstanding writers and as you enter on the ground floor you'll see a bust statue of their heads. You'll also see the
Manuscripts that included Burns’ draft of Scots “Wha Hae” (‘Bruce’s Address to his troops at Bannockburn’).
Another artifact to look out for is the chair that Burns used whilst editing his works at the printers on Anchor's Close.
They also have an extensive collection of letters, including a letter written by Robert Burns to his younger brother, William.
The museum is very interesting if you're a fan of Walter Scott. He himself was very influenced by Burns. (He was a staunch supporter of building the aforementioned Burn's monument). Scott and Burns met each other in the winter of 1786. At the time, Scott was an impressionable 15 year old. They had come across each other at Robert Ferguson's house on Sciennes Hill.
The Writer’s Museum is open daily from 10, last entry is 4:30.
Best Haggis in Edinburgh
If you would like to make your own address to a haggis, I can highly recommend Makars Mash Bar on Bank Street for some traditional haggis, neeps and tatties! Although I should mention there will not be bagpiper inside!
